Beginner’s Guide to Harbour Island, the Bahamas (From Someone Who Lives Here)

(Updated September 2026) I wrote the first version of this guide in 2019, back when Harbour Island was my favorite place to visit. Now it’s home. Turns out a lot of what I knew was the visitor’s version of the island.

So I rewrote it. Silver Airways is gone. Restaurants have opened, closed, and moved. A few of my old favorites didn’t make it, and a few new ones earned their spot. What hasn’t changed: this is still a calm place, lightly speckled with tourists and roosters who can’t keep time.

One thing before we start, because it trips up almost everyone. Locals call Harbour Island Briland (BRY-lund). The bigger island you fly into is Eleuthera (ee-LOO-thuh-ruh). You’ll hear both names constantly, usually in the same sentence.

In this guide:

• When to visit
• How to get to Harbour Island
• Getting around
• Where to stay
• Where to eat
• Things to do
• Day trips
• Cash, tipping, and what it costs
• Is Harbour Island safe?
• FAQ

Harbour Island at a Glance

• Where it is: A small island just off the northeast coast of North Eleuthera, in the Bahamas Out Islands. Not to be confused with Harbor Island in Tampa.
• How you get here: Fly into North Eleuthera (ELH), taxi to the dock, water taxi across. There’s no airport on the island.
• How you get around: Golf cart, bike, or on foot. There are no rental cars, and we drive on the left.
• Money: The Bahamian dollar is pegged 1:1 to the US dollar, and USD is accepted everywhere. Bring cash. The ATMs are unreliable.
• Best time to go: Mid-December through April for peak weather and everything open. May and June for fewer crowds and better rates.
• Drinking water: Not from the tap. Reverse osmosis water is fine.

When to Visit Harbour Island

High season (mid-December through April) is the island at full volume. The weather is at its best, every restaurant and shop is open, and there’s a real social scene. It’s also the most expensive time to come, and it books up early. If you want Christmas, New Year’s, or Easter week, reserve months ahead.

May and June are the sweet spot. It’s warm, the crowds thin out, and rates start to come down.

July through November is the quiet season. It’s hot and humid, some businesses close for part of the fall, and it’s hurricane season (officially June 1 to November 30, with the most activity from August through October). It’s also when Harbour Island feels most like a small Bahamian town instead of a resort destination. If you’re flexible and you buy travel insurance, it’s an underrated time to come.

One note for any season: the sand fleas (no-see-ums) come out at dusk near the beach and the mangroves. They’re invisible, and the itching lasts for days. Pack repellent. My Harbour Island packing list has the ones that actually work.

How to Get to Harbour Island

There’s no airport on Harbour Island. Everyone arrives the same way: fly into North Eleuthera (ELH), take a short taxi ride to the dock, then a water taxi across the harbour. It sounds like a lot. The whole transfer usually takes under half an hour, and the boat ride is when most people fall for the place.

Flying into North Eleuthera (ELH)

First, the big change. Silver Airways shut down in June 2025. If a guide still tells you to book Silver, it hasn’t been updated.

Here’s who flies into ELH now:

• Seasonal nonstops from the US: American (from Miami and Charlotte), Delta (from Atlanta), and United run winter-season service. Most of these start in the fall and wind down in the spring.
• Smaller carriers from South Florida: Bahamasair, Tradewind Aviation, Makers Air, Aztec Airways, and Tropic Ocean Airways fly from Fort Lauderdale and nearby airports. Tropic Ocean added scheduled Fort Lauderdale flights after Silver’s exit.
• From Nassau: Bahamasair, Pineapple Air, Southern Air, and Western Air all connect Nassau to ELH.

From Fort Lauderdale or Miami, the flight is under an hour. From most other US cities, you’ll connect through South Florida, Atlanta, Charlotte, or Nassau.

Routes here change every season. Check what’s actually flying on your dates before you build a trip around a nonstop.

From the airport to the island

Taxis wait outside arrivals at ELH. The ride to the dock is short, and the water taxi across takes about 10 minutes. [CONFIRM: current per-person taxi and water taxi fares] Bring cash for both, plus a little extra to tip. Water taxis run regularly during the day. If you’re landing late, arrange your ride ahead of time.

The fast ferry from Nassau

Bahamas Ferries runs a high-speed catamaran from Potter’s Cay in Nassau to Harbour Island a few days a week, with a stop in Spanish Wells. It leaves at 8 a.m. and takes about three hours. As of 2026, round-trip fares start around $257 per person. The schedule changes by season, so check the Bahamas Ferries site for your dates.

Taking the ferry means a night in Nassau first. Pre-arrange a taxi to Potter’s Cay. It’s an early departure from a busy working dock, and you don’t want to be hunting for a ride at dawn.

Getting Around Harbour Island

There are no rental cars here, and you won’t miss one. The streets are paved but sandy, the island is small, and nothing is far. Most visitors rent a golf cart. Plenty of people walk or bike.

Two things nobody tells you. We drive on the left. And rental carts all look alike, so snap a photo of your cart’s number when you pick it up. Every so often a tourist drives off in someone else’s. It’s almost always an honest mistake, but it’s still annoying when the cart is yours.

Golf cart rentals

Book ahead, especially in high season. Carts sell out. You can expect to pay between $60 and $120/day for a golf cart, depending on how nice or large of a cart you’d like to rent.

• Dunmore Rentals: Cash and cards accepted, ID required.
• Lulu’s Golf Cart Rentals
• Ross Rentals

Bikes

Michael’s Cycles rents bikes, plus golf carts, boats, and kayaks. Email MichaelsCyclesBriland@gmail.com.

Where to Stay on Harbour Island

Hotels and resorts

Tingum Village ($150 to $250/night). Ma Ruby’s family property, now run day to day by her daughter Juanita. The back suites have king beds and private entrances. No frills, lots of charm, and breakfast (fresh bread and fruit) is included.

The Landing ($230 to $500/night). A historic 1800s property overlooking the harbor. Four-poster beds with Ralph Lauren linens, a pool, and reserved chairs on Pink Sands Beach.

Coral Sands ($350 to $1,200/night). Right on Pink Sands Beach, with rooms, suites, cottages, and Villa Carissa, a three-bedroom house with its own pool. It made Condé Nast Traveler’s 2026 Gold List. The beachfront restaurant handles gluten-free requests well.

Valentines Resort & Marina ($400 to $850/night). I’m biased, but Valentines has been my go-to resort for well over a decade, long before I moved here or married the owner. It’s a bayside marina resort with two restaurants, a spa, and a dive center. The best part: every unit larger than a studio has a full kitchen and in-unit laundry, without the hassle of an Airbnb. Book directly with the resort if you want access to the gym and daily housekeeping. Off-season rates can dip below $400.

Pink Sands Resort ($600 to $2,000/night). Cottages spread out for privacy, most with beach views. Even if you don’t stay here, go to Blue Bar (more on that below).

The Ocean View Club ($600 to $2,000/night). Along with Bahama House, this is where you’ll find the most historic charm on the island. Bohemian decor, a breezy layout, and an upscale bar. It’s in high demand, so email reserve.oceanview@gmail.com well in advance.

Bahama House (from about $600/night). A house dating to around 1800 in Dunmore Town, now an 11-room hotel run by Eleven Experience. It’s the other place on the island with real historic charm. There’s a warm lap pool and a tiki bar in the courtyard, and rates include breakfast and round-trip transfers from North Eleuthera airport. It’s open November through July.

The Dunmore ($750 to $2,000+/night). The island’s most iconic resort, and home to the white and turquoise beach shack overlooking Pink Sands.

Rock House. A small, beautifully renovated boutique hotel in a historic building in town, with a lovely bar for a cocktail before dinner.

Vacation rentals

A lot of repeat visitors skip hotels entirely and rent a house. My top two picks are At Ease and Sea Siren. Both are beautiful, and the owners of both are great people.

• At Ease: 5 bed, 4.5 bath in Dunmore Town, freshly renovated, with a heated pool, a pool bar, a towel house, and a housekeeper included.
• Sea Siren: Right on Pink Sands Beach. A 4-bed main house plus a 2-bed guest cottage (sleeps 12), a private pool, and butler service with daily breakfast included.
• Touchstone’s House (about $421/night): 2 bed, 2 bath, with fruit trees on the property.
• Mainbrace (about $580/night): 3 bed, 2 bath, steps from Pink Sands Beach.
• Coral House (about $1,000/night): 4 bed, 4 bath, historic, with coral and pink decor that photographs beautifully.
• The Yellowbird House (about $1,215/night): 5 bed, 5 bath. A historic main house plus a newer guest cottage and a private pool.
• The White House (about $2,500/night): 5 bed, 5 bath, clean white interiors and luxury finishes.
• Rosalita Beach Front House ($15,000+/night): 6 bed, 6 bath. About as luxurious as the island gets.

Where to Eat on Harbour Island

The food scene has changed more than anything else since I first wrote this. Some places closed, some moved, and a few menus got a full makeover. In high season, make dinner reservations.

For fellow gluten-free people, there are no dedicated gluten-free restaurants on the island (yet!), but most kitchens will take care of you to the best of their ability. I’ve noted the places that make it easy.

Arthur’s Bakery. Start here for coffee, pastries, and a proper breakfast. Get the coconut bread.

The Landing. Still one of the best meals on the island, morning or night. At breakfast, their homemade granola with almond milk and berries is one of the best gluten-free options around. At dinner, sit on the patio for sunset over North Eleuthera. My husband and I always order the coconut curry chicken, with a Ginger Fro for him and a glass of blanc de blancs for me. He also loves the Landing salad with the lemon vinaigrette.

Ocean View Club. This is the island’s hidden gem as far as we’re concerned. The menu is small but ever item is reliably delicious. It’s tucked away, adorable, and peaceful on a high-season evening. Plus, if you get there before sundown, you can’t beat their beach views. Call them for reservations at 242-333-2276.

Rooster Tail Bar & Grill. Rooster Tail, at Valentines, has been a staple for me for well over a decade. Now it’s also where my husband and I put our time and energy, so consider this your full disclosure. The menu got an update. There’s an everyday taco bowl with black beans, grilled corn, crunchy purple cabbage, and fresh pico, and it’s delicious. There’s also a curry chicken salad wrap, a classic turkey club, and local fish tacos on soft white corn tortillas. The daily specials usually include a red curry with grouper, or with lobster if you’re feeling fancy. And we have the best piña colada on the island by a long shot.

Acquapazza. One of the most reliable restaurants on the island, and one of the most reasonably priced. It’s now at the north end near the entrance to The Narrows. It works for a long lunch with an Aperol spritz, an easy dinner, or a meal out with the kids. Order the chicken Milanese or the spicy pasta alla burina. (They sometimes have gluten free pasta, but they’re not the safest choice for gluten-free diners.)

Da Vine. Fresh sushi and sashimi near The Landing, steps from the water. A lot of people say it beats any sushi they can find back home. And, of all things, the Brussels sprouts are unbelievably good. My husband can’t get enough of them.

Coral Sands. Chef Emilio has reworked the menu. Dinner is Italian-inspired, and things stay casual down at the beach bar. We like the black bean hummus, and I usually get the burger. There are some fun frozen cocktails if you’re into that, but I like to skip the sugar.

Blue Bar at Pink Sands. The resort’s beachfront restaurant, and worth the trip. Malcolm 51 is the resort’s “fine dining” option, but it’s not my favorite. For us, dinners are all about The Landing, Ocean View Club or DaVine.

Queen Conch. Traditional Bahamian food on Bay Street. Conch salad, conch fritters, cracked lobster, and Bahamian mac and cheese.

Ma Ruby’s. At Tingum Village, and famous for the cheeseburger said to have inspired Jimmy Buffett’s “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” It comes on toasted bread.

The Sweet Spot. Fresh juices, smoothies, and bowls. The banana cocoa bowl is the one.

Sip Sip. A reimagined version of the old classic, now on the bayside at Romora Bay. It’s not a top spot for me. It’s hard to eat gluten-free there, and it doesn’t have the charm of the original. Still, it’s a worthwhile stop.

Things to Do on Harbour Island

Pink Sands Beach

This is the reason most people come, and it deserves the hype. The beach runs roughly three miles along the Atlantic side of the island. The pink comes from foraminifera, tiny marine organisms with reddish shells that wash up and mix into the sand. It’s subtler in person than the most saturated photos suggest. Still striking, just not neon. The water fades from clear to turquoise as it deepens, and the waves are pleasant without being rough.

The UV here is not playing, and the pink sand reflects it right back at you. Wear real sunscreen.

On the water

Boat tours. Book with Cay Witness Charters or Spanish Wells Fishing. A day on the water can include sea turtles, dolphins, giant red starfish, and the swimming pigs.

Fishing. Go with Spanish Wells Fishing, whether you want reef fishing, deep-sea fishing, or bonefishing in the mangroves.

Scuba diving and snorkeling. Valentines Dive Center runs dive and snorkel trips with PADI-certified instructors, for first-timers through advanced divers.

Shopping

For an island this size, the shopping is very good. These are the stops I send everyone to.

Valentines Provisions. (Yes, this one is ours.) It’s an array of everything: Beach Riot swimwear, my own line of resort dresses, Love Love Resort Wear, handmade jewelry from local artisans, and pieces from our friend at Found Jewelry in Savannah, Georgia. We also carry Marine Layer for men, Feel Goodz flip-flops, Vacation sunscreen, kids’ swimwear and toys, plenty of snacks, and more.

Valentines Dive Shop. Run by our friend Dawn. More sunscreen, boat-friendly sunglasses, rash guards, pool toys, the best T-shirts on the island, a wide selection of hats, and even live bait if you’re heading out to fish.

Sugar Mill Trading Co. India Hicks’ shop on Bay Street. You’ll find high-end clothing, including lemlem cover-ups and Wiggy Kit dresses, alongside India’s housewares and coffee table books. The ladies who run the store are wonderful.

The Dunmore gift shop. One of my favorites, with shockingly good sales on cashmere and dresses. It carries a lot of today’s top contemporary resort wear brands. I love their selection of ASHA jewelry, Alémais dresses, unique raffia handbags, and pretty straw hats.

The Dunmore Shop. Not to be confused with the shop at the resort. This one is on Bay Street, and it’s run by a local girl named Christina who does a great job curating clothes and accessories. Look for the straw hats and some of the cutest beaded coin purses on the island.

Dilly Dally. One of my favorite stops for local souvenirs.

Princess Street Gallery. My other favorite for local souvenirs.

Harbour Island Canvas. Totes, backpacks, duffels, and waterproof phone pouches made from recycled sails. Perfect souvenirs for friends and family back home.

Shine. Clothing, jewelry, textiles, and handmade housewares, spread across two buildings.

Blue Rooster. A boutique in a historic Bahamian house, with airy tunics and island accessories. They carry jewelry from our friend Trish Becker and cute beaded handbags from Tiffany Lightbourn, plus hats and T-shirts that support Briland Animal Rescue.

A and A Hidden Treasures. Custom monogrammed straw bags and conch shells, near Sugar Apple Lodge. A favorite for bridesmaid gifts.

TipTop. Where you’ll buy flip-flops after your wedges meet the sandy streets.

Landmarks on Harbour Island

Dunmore Town. Walk it. The colorful clapboard houses and narrow lanes are the best way to actually see the island instead of just passing through it.

Uncle Ralph’s Corner. A wall of license plates from all over the world, right in the center of town.

The driftwood trees. West of the government dock on Bay Street, two driftwood trees stand in the shallows among a few old boats. Small, but worth the stop.

Meet the potcakes

Briland Animal Rescue. Go meet the potcake puppies and kittens. Potcakes are the Bahamas’ own island dogs, and the babies at the rescue need socialization, so a visit actually helps. Fair warning: you may leave with a new family member.

Nightlife

Vic-Hum Club. A Dunmore Town institution and the spot for a real local night out.

Gusty’s. A dive bar with sand floors, pool tables, a dance floor, Kalik, and Goombay Smashes.

Daddy D’s. The island’s nightclub, for when you want to dance late.

Every week on Harbour Island

The Friday fish fry at Valentines. Worth building a Friday night around.

Day Trips from Harbour Island

Spanish Wells. A short boat ride away, and a completely different pace. It’s a working fishing and lobstering town with its own small-town charm and very good seafood. Any of the charter captains above can take you, and the Nassau ferry stops there too.

North Eleuthera. Rent a car on the Eleuthera side of the water and spend a day exploring. The Glass Window Bridge, where the dark blue Atlantic meets the calm turquoise water of the Bight on either side of a narrow strip of road, is the stop you’ll remember. Preacher’s Cave and Gregory Town are also close. For much more on the rest of the island, read my beginner’s guide to Eleuthera.

Money on Harbour Island: Cash, Tipping, and What It Costs

Cash and cards

The ATMs on Harbour Island are unreliable and sometimes out of service entirely. Bring cash. You’ll need it for taxis and water taxis, and some of the best local spots are cash only. For cards, bring Visa or Mastercard. Tons of places don’t take American Express.

US dollars are accepted everywhere, and the Bahamian dollar is worth exactly the same. Don’t be surprised if you get Bahamian bills back as change.

Tipping

Read your bill before you tip. Many restaurants here automatically add a 15% gratuity. If service was great, a little extra on top is appreciated, but you don’t need to tip twice. For taxi drivers, 10% to 15% is normal, and water taxi captains appreciate a few extra dollars. (More on local tipping norms.)

What a trip actually costs

Harbour Island is not a budget destination, and pretending otherwise doesn’t help anyone plan. Rough numbers: [CONFIRM: estimates, adjust to what you see]

• Flights: About $300 to $600+ round trip from the US, depending on season and where you’re flying from.
• Hotels: Most run $250 to $800 a night in season. Villas and the top resorts go well beyond that.
• Golf cart: See rental rates above.
• Food: A casual lunch runs about $20 to $35 a person. Dinner at the nicer restaurants is easily $75 to $150+ a person with drinks.
• Airport transfers: Budget cash for the taxi and water taxi each way.

The good news: the best things here, the beach, the sunsets, the pace of life, cost nothing.

Is Harbour Island Safe?

Yes. Harbour Island is one of the safer places you can visit in the Bahamas, and violent crime is rare. The most common “theft” on the island is a tourist driving off in someone else’s identical rental cart.

The realistic risks are practical ones:

• The roads. Narrow, sandy, full of blind corners, and we drive on the left. Go slow, especially at night.
• The sun. The UV index is intense year-round. Reapply more than you think you need to.
• Medical care. There’s a government clinic on the island for everyday issues. Anything serious means a flight to Nassau or Florida, so travel insurance with medical evacuation coverage is worth having.
• Hurricane season. June through November. If you’re booking during those months, watch the forecast and get insurance.

Know Before You Go

• Don’t drink the tap water. City water isn’t for drinking. Reverse osmosis water is, so ask your hotel or rental host what they have. For example, all of the water at Valentine’s Resort is reverse osmosis and safe to drink.
• Island time is real. Boats, deliveries, and dinner service run on their own schedule. Build slack into your plans and you’ll enjoy it more.
• Pack for sand, not sidewalks. Flat shoes, linen, serious sunscreen, and bug spray. Here’s my full Harbour Island packing list.
• Mind the spelling. It’s Harbour Island, with a U. Search “Harbor Island” and you’ll end up in Tampa.

Harbour Island FAQ

How do you pronounce Briland and Eleuthera?

Briland is BRY-lund, the local name for Harbour Island. Eleuthera is ee-LOO-thuh-ruh.

Can you fly directly to Harbour Island?

No. Fly into North Eleuthera (ELH), then take a short taxi and a 10-minute water taxi across.

Do I need a passport?

Yes. US citizens need a valid passport to enter the Bahamas.

Do they take US dollars?

Yes, everywhere. The Bahamian dollar is pegged 1:1 to the US dollar. Bring cash, because the ATMs are unreliable.

Can you drink the water on Harbour Island?

Not from the tap. Reverse osmosis water is safe to drink, and bottled water is easy to find.

Can you rent a car on Harbour Island?

No. Rent a golf cart, a bike, or walk. If you want a car for a day trip, rent one on the Eleuthera side.

How many days do you need?

Three or four nights is enough to settle into island pace. A week gives you time for a day trip to Spanish Wells or North Eleuthera.

What’s the best month to visit Harbour Island?

For weather and everything being open, mid-December through April. For fewer crowds and better rates, May or June.

Is Harbour Island good for a honeymoon or wedding?

Very. It’s a well-loved destination wedding spot with venues and vendors who do this often. It deserves its own guide, and I’m writing one.