Beginner’s Guide to Eleuthera, The Bahamas

I went to the Bahamas three times the year before the pandemic, which forced me into a 10-month break from island life. As the quarantine and social distancing measures wore on, I missed Eleuthera more each day. With over 100 miles and 150 beaches to explore, “fear of missing out” became less of a “fear” and more of a reality.

With the pandemic finally fading away, I refuse to take an island hiatus that long ever again. In fact, I’ve already been back three times — most recently in July 2022!

If you’re desperate for an island vacation, unfamiliar with Eleuthera and wondering why I’m so obsessed with the island, this “Beginner’s Guide to Eleuthera” is for you. Now, let me douse your mind in pure Bahamian sunshine and prepare you for the adventure of a lifetime!

When is the best time to visit Eleuthera?

Before we dive into trip logistics and recommendations, let’s talk about the best times of the year to visit Eleuthera. For first-time visitors, it’s important to know that hurricane season in the Bahamas is between June 1st and November 30th of each year, with the highest likelihood of hurricanes between late August and late October. I have taken several successful trips to the Bahamas during this timeframe, but I recommend getting trip insurance in case of trip-disrupting weather.

The peak seasons for tourism in the Bahamas are during the holidays, between mid-November and New Years, kicking up again around March (spring break) and carrying through the summer months. In my experience, the best weather is late spring through early summer. July can be a great month too, but it’s one of the hotter months, along with August.

During the low season (hurricane season) some hotels and restaurants close dow—especially on the out islands like Eleuthera and Harbour Island. Many Bahamian business owners use these months to travel to the States and other places, so the islands are usually quiet. You can still have a lovely trip during the off-season, but the weather and business closures are something to consider.

Traveling to Eleuthera: Airlines and Flight Routes

One of the questions I’m asked most frequently is “how to get to Eleuthera.” In my Harbour Island guide, I explain how to travel to ELH, which is the airport in North Eleuthera. It’s one of three airports on Eleuthera and the easiest to fly into. Here are the standard airlines that will take you to ELH:

  • American Airlines – Connection in Miami or Fort Lauderdale
    (My recommendation would be to avoid Charlotte unless it’s your neighborhood airport. Customs there can create brutal lines on the way back home.)
  • Delta Airlines – Connection in Atlanta
  • Silver Airways – Connection in Fort Lauderdale or Nassau
  • Bahamas Air – Connection in Nassau
  • Pineapple Air – Connection in Nassau

You can also take Silver Airways, Pineapple Air and Bahamas Air to GHB from Nassau. GHB is the airport near Governor’s Harbour, which is more convenient if you intend to stay in Governor’s Harbour or south Eleuthera. Plus, they have an air-conditioned waiting room and bar for departing guests.

Finally, there is the southernmost airport in Rock Sound (RSD). Like GHB, it’s easiest to get to by connecting in Nassau first, then taking Bahamas Air or Pineapple Air across. 

You can also charter private planes to any of these airports through companies like Tryp, Maker’s Air and Southern Air Charter

Pro Tip: In my experience, as someone who lives in the U.S., the cheapest way to fly to Eleuthera is by flying to Fort Lauderdale and taking Silver Airways across to ELH. However, it’s not always the most headache-free. Silver is known for delays and canceling flights that aren’t full. However, they’ve always gotten me there, so I can’t complain too much. 

Getting Around Eleuthera: Rent an SUV

Car Rental in Eleuthera, Bahamas
Jeep from Cadet Rentals at the Glass Window Bridge

Eleuthera is over 100 miles long, so you’ll need a capable SUV! There are several rental companies on the island, but I usually rent from a kind woman named Sue Knowles. If you would like her email address, please email me (travelwithlace at gmail) or reach out to me on Instagram.

Otherwise, look into Big Daddy’s Car Rentals or Cadet Car Rentals

Car rentals are typically between $80-120 per day plus delivery, depending on where they need to drop the car off for you. Rentals are not cheap, but they are absolutely essential!

What to Do in Eleuthera, The Bahamas

Eleuthera has its own phrase — “Eleuthera, it’s not for everyone.” It’s hilarious to me because I completely understand why that’s the phrase, but I also think anyone who dislikes Eleuthera is crazy. On some level, I think people who dislike Eleuthera actually dislike having to acknowledge that the place they’re vacationing in is made up of real people with real hardships. This ain’t Disneyland, folks, and it’s certainly not a commercialized destination — it’s a remote island in the Bahamas. If you prefer the latest modern amenities, busy restaurants, luxury shopping malls and vehicles without mechanical issues, I recommend looking into Paradise Island over in Nassau. 

The rest of us reclusive yet adventurous souls will be living it up on the pristine beaches of Eleuthera. If you are one of us, read on. 

150 Untouched Beaches in Eleuthera, The Bahamas

Eleuthera is known for its many “elusive” beaches, including world-famous Lighthouse Beach, Twin Coves Beach, Double Bay Beach, French Leave Beach and so many others. This variety is one of the many reasons I love Eleuthera — I know that as long as I live, I’ll never see every inch of the island.

There are many beaches listed on TripAdvisor, but I highly recommend buying The Beach Book: Eleuthera (which goes out of print often, so prices range between $49 and $130) and The Elusive Beaches of Eleuthera book. Ordinarily, I’m not a huge travel guide fan, but these books are worth it because they list so many beaches and explain how to find them.

A couple of things to be aware of with these books: First, the photographs don’t do the island any justice! Second, the reference points in The Elusive Beaches of Eleuthera book are a bit dated. For instance, it uses “The Duck Inn” as a reference point, but it no longer exists. You can, however, ask a local where the Duck Inn was and you’ll likely get a reference point

If you can’t get your hands on the books, you can also look for a detailed map of the island. You can check Amazon or Norma’s Gift Shop in Governor’s Harbour for a map. 

Pro Tip: If you use the Google Maps app, you can download the local map to your phone to ensure you’re able to use the app without cellular data. The maps do expire every few days, so be sure to download your map when you arrive (versus days in advance).

Many of the beaches, including Lighthouse Point and Twin Coves Beach require some “offroading” to find. Be sure you rent an SUV! (Don’t worry about 4×4. Word has it even the vehicles labeled “4X4” aren’t because the 4X4 systems are too difficult to maintain on the island.) 

If you’re going to Lighthouse Beach, be prepared for a 2-mile hike down a pristine beach. Dinsey has improved the road, but you can no longer drive all the way to the point. Instead, you have to park your car and walk to the point. As of now (July 2022) I’ve been told that no cruise port construction has actually taken place. This means you can still soak up the raw beauty of the point and grab those jaw-dropping drone shots!

Be sure to take LOTS of water, snacks, or a full-blown picnic. Oh, and some toilet paper might be nice, just in case.

Pro Tip: If your cellular provider doesn’t have great international plans, the best thing you can do to make navigating the island easy is to rent a WiFi hotspot from They’re not cheap, and they have limited quantities, but having unlimited internet access while you’re in the backwoods of the island trying to find some unmarked beach is extremely reassuring.

The Spanish Wells Fishing Boat and a Queen Tigger Fish in the Bahamas
Spanish Wells Fishing – Captain Ryan, my mom & me (left) My dad holding a Queen Tigger fish (right)

Fishing & Boat Tours in Eleuthera

When I go visit the swimming pigs or reef fishing in the Eleuthera area, I always go with Spanish Wells Fishing. To go out with SWF and Captain Ryan, you need to drive up to the Jean’s Bay Ferry Dock, which faces Spanish Wells from North Eleuthera. Ryan will pick you up in a boat there for a day full of sea creatures, sand bars, and/or fishing. All of his trips are fully customizable, so you can do and see whatever you want!

If you’re not interested in driving up to North Eleuthera, you can also look for tour guides that operate out of Governor’s Harbour or South Eleuthera, though they are harder to find. Visit TripAdvisor for more information on tours and fishing options around Eleuthera or look through my top choices. 

My Top Tour Guide Recommendations in Eleuthera

  • Spanish Wells Fishing – Boat Tours, Fishing, Diving, Snorkeling
    • Spanish Wells (North Eleuthera)
    • My personal go-to tour guide in North Eleuthera!
  • Mus Be Dreamin’ Charters – Boat Tours, Fishing, Diving, Snorkeling
    • Spanish Wells (North Eleuthera)
  • Fishbone Tours – Boat Tours, Fishing, Snorkeling
    • Savannah Sound (Central Eleuthera)
    • I’ve heard rave reviews about this tour guide! A solid option for guests staying in mid-to-south Eleuthera.
  • Eleuthera Adventure Tours – Canoeing, Kayaking, Tours, etc.
    • Rock Sound, Eleuthera (South Eleuthera)
  • Float Your Boat Bahamas – Tours, Fishing, Snorkeling, Concierge Services
    • Nassau, Eleuthera, and the rest of the Bahamas
Glass Window Bridge, Eleuthera, Bahamas
The Glass Window Bridge in Eleuthera, the Bahamas

Glass Window Bridge

The Glass Window Bridge, also known as the narrowest point on earth, connects North Eleuthera to the rest of the island. It sits high above the ocean, with the Caribbean Sea (Exuma Sound) on one side and the deep blue Atlantic on the other. The contrasting water is incredible to see and even more staggering from the air. Don’t forget to bring your drone for photos like these! 

(P.S. This place is extremely dangerous when the water is rough! People have literally been washed over the edge trying to get a glimpse at the two sides. Please avoid climbing on the rocks and DO NOT drive across when the water is high/rough. Love, Your Mom.)

Queen’s Bath

The Queen’s Bath is just beyond the Glass Window Bridge (if you’re headed south from ELH). 

These natural “baths” are created when the ocean is at low tide, making it the perfect spot for a sunny dip away from the waves. However, this spot — much like Glass Window Bridge — can be quite dangerous if you visit when the tide is higher, or the water is rough. Please remember that when you’re in Eleuthera, you’re an airlift away from a major hospital!


As cheesy as it sounds, I implore you to actively stargaze while you are visiting Eleuthera. There’s virtually no light pollution in the out islands, so you can see EVERYTHING — the milky way, shooting stars and satellites are all yours to enjoy. Nothing will make you feel smaller!

Shopping in Eleuthera

Norma’s Gift Shop

Norma’s is THE gift shop in Eleuthera. If you want Eleuthera t-shirts and souvenirs, or find yourself needing new sandals or swimwear on your trip, this is the place to go! They have a large selection of items, and the store is very centrally located. You can find Norma’s in Governor’s Harbour, right across the street from the convenience store and Da Perk coffee shop, next to the police station. 

(My mom thinks the police station is hilarious because it has a wooden sign and a police mini-bike parked out front. She couldn’t get enough of it.)

Bahama Hand Prints

Bahama Hand Prints, which is quickly becoming an iconic brand in the Bahamas, has three locations. Luckily for you, one of them is in Governor’s Harbour, just across from Norma’s Gift Shop. When you’re driving into town from the North, you can’t miss seeing their whimsical sign. 

They stock a range of high-end men’s and womenswear, including button-down shirts, sundresses and swim shorts, as well as home decor and hand-designed fabrics. They also have adorable beach bags and pouches to help you keep your vacation items organized and stylish. 

I highly recommend popping into Bahama Hand Prints to pick up some fashionable items you’ll be eager to show off when you head back home!

Groceries and Dining in Eleuthera, The Bahamas

The Island Farm

The Eleuthera Island Farm is a family-owned farm and farmer’s market located 5-10 minutes south of Governor’s Harbour on the right-hand side. The small, open-air market has a selection of fresh-picked veggies and fruit — many of which you may not know about! You can find Bahamian red and green mangoes, passion fruit, quinep, soursop and more. It’s a great place to pick up fresh ingredients, homemade seasoning blends, jams, beer, wine and liquor to take back to your rental house. 

Tippy’s Bar & Grill

Tippy’s is the coolest beach bar in all of Eleuthera! Located up-the-hill and around-the-corner from Governor’s Harbour, Tippy’s is a beach-front paradise for an afternoon of cold Kaliks and pina coladas. The last time we visited, we played cards on the deck for hours, went back to the house, and came back for dinner! Their lobster is the best I’ve had in all of the Bahamas (and I’ve had my fair share of spiny lobsters). 

The Buccaneer Club

I’m not sure how we missed the Buccaneer Club on our first two trips. It’s located on the hill in Governor’s Harbour (on the way to French Leave Beach). It’s a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner. We were pleasantly surprised by their delicious, authentically Bahamian food and reasonable prices. If you want peas and rice, coleslaw, macaroni and cheese, and fried goodness, this is the place!

Be sure to stop into their gift shop for an “It’s Better in The Bahamas” t-shirt and a scoop of fresh coconut ice cream, too. I had to swing by for another scoop just before we left the island. It’s that good!

La Bougainvillea

La Bougainvillea far exceeded my expectations. We ate here twice on a recent trip and absolutely loved it! The food was fresh and delicious and they have a solid wine selection. My husband even said they had the best conch fritters of any place we visited. (He’s a bit of a fritter connoisseur.) Plus, you absolutely cannot beat the beach-front views their restaurant offers. Next time, we may even consider staying in their gorgeous hotel.

Bacchus Fine Foods

If you drive out to Pineapple Fields Resort, Tippy’s or La Bougainvillea, you’ll pass Bacchus Fine Foods on the righthand side of the road. It’s very close to Governor’s Harbour and certainly worth a visit – especially if you’re gluten-free! They have an excellent selection of wine, cheeses, meats, crackers, and gluten-free baking ingredients and snacks. Eleuthera (and the entire Bahamas) can be tough for gluten-free eaters like myself, but Bacchus Fine Foods makes it easier! In addition to grocery items, Bacchus also offers dine-in and take-away items like charcuterie boards, omelets and lattes.

Burrow’s Grocery Store

Burrow’s is just past the police station in Governor’s Harbour – on the right-hand side if you’re heading South East. It’s the most reasonably-priced and complete grocery store in town. You can find a limited selection of most items, including sunscreen, cereals, bread, frozen pizzas, meat and produce. The freezers in the back are labeled to let you know what’s inside. I highly recommend shopping at Burrow’s versus the Shell station convenience store across from Norma’s gift shop.

The Fish Fry

On Friday nights, locals and tourists gather in Governor’s Harbour to enjoy loud music, cold Kalik, and an array of Bahamian fare as the sun sets on Cupid’s Cay. You’ll find freshly-caught fried fish, barbecued chicken, peas and rice, Bahamian mac and cheese (seriously, the best thing on earth), coleslaw and more. You can even find homemade cakes and pies sold by street vendors near the “dance floor” — which is really just the street in front of the food stand. If you’re ready to absorb all that Bahamian culture has to offer, this event is absolutely worth planning your trip around! 

Pineapples and magazines on display at Da Perk coffee shop

Da Perk Coffee Shop

Picking up coffee from a proper coffee shop is something I love to do at home. Getting to visit a coffee shop steps from the water in Governor’s Harbour is even better! Da Perk (best name ever, right?) is right across the street from Norma’s Gift Shop. They have a full range of coffee beverages – hot and cold – as well as a small selection of pastries to help you get the day started. Definitely worth a visit when you’re in town and eager for a caffeine boost!

The Cove Eleuthera Resort 

We didn’t have a chance to stop at The Cove Resort, but I always drool when I see photos! The Cove is located in North Eleuthera near Gregory Town. It’s not far from the North Eleuthera Airport and would be a great place to stay for people interested in being near Harbour Island and Spanish Wells for day trips. 

They have the Freedom restaurant and sushi bar and the Point Bar, which is known for sunset cocktails. The Cove also offers private dining options for resort guests. 

French Leave Resort

The French Leave Resort is located in central Eleuthera, just outside of Governor’s Harbour. The property is gorgeous and provides guests with access to the beautiful French Leave Beach (which you can also visit on your own). The French Leave’s restaurant, which is perfectly located on the water’s edge overlooking Cupid’s Cay, is called 1648. The restaurant offers thoughtful (and somewhat expensive) menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s the ideal spot to catch one of those iconic Governor’s Harbour sunsets!

Eating Gluten-Free in Eleuthera: A Personal Note

Due to health reasons, I now have to eat gluten and dairy-free, so I wanted to make a note for others in the same boat. The Bahamas can be tough for safe gluten-free dining for celiac travelers. However, I’m happy to report that our most recent trip was the easiest one yet. I was able to eat at La Bougainvillea, Buccaneer Club, and even the Fish Fry without feeling ill. Fortunately, Bahamian staples like curried grouper, peas and rice, and cole slaw are naturally gluten and dairy free. Most of the servers I spoke to understood what I needed and helped make sure I could find something safe (though cross-contamination is always a risk). I also love how easy it is to find a nice AirBNB with a kitchen in Eleuthera. Between bringing my own staples (tortillas, pasta, etc.), shopping at Bacchus Fine Foods and The Island Farm, and chatting with restaurant staff, I never go hungry in Eleuthera.

My husband walking along the Bougainvillea flowers near the Buccaneer Club in Governor’s Harbour, Eleuthera

A common question: Is Eleuthera safe?

There’s an Eleuthera group on Facebook and one of the first questions newcomers ask is whether or not Eleuthera is safe. One of my favorite answers I’ve seen is “Eleuthera is safer than wherever you’re coming from.” And, it’s true! I live in a middle-class neighborhood in Dallas, and I feel safer in Eleuthera.

While there is some crime in Eleuthera, it’s 99% petty theft. As with most places, it’s important to keep your doors and windows locked at night and avoid leaving valuables unattended. (e.g., don’t get careless and leave your beach bag yards from wherever you’re swimming.)

Pro Tip: Leave your rental car unlocked! The company you rent your car from will tell you the same thing. If you lock your car, you may have your window smashed because thieves will assume you’re hiding something valuable.

Things to Pack for Your Trip to Eleuthera

Eleuthera is full of amazing wildlife… and some annoying creatures too! To make preparing for your trip a little easier, I compiled an Amazon shopping list of items you’ll probably need. It includes island-specific insect repellents, water shoes, packing essentials, the specific drone I use for travel, and a few other things.
(You can view the list directly on through this link.)

Visiting Eleuthera in 2022?

If you’re planning to go to Eleuthera in 2022, please know that the restrictions for tourists entering the Bahamas are ever-changing. For updated entry requirements and the health visa application visit Check these requirements frequently ahead of your trip — definitely within 7 days!

I will continue updating this guide on a regular basis (especially after trips). If you need any further information, don’t hesitate to reach out to me on Instagram (@travelwithlace). I’m always happy to answer questions about travel to and within the Bahamas.

XO, Lacey

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Lacey is an artist, marketer, photographer, foodie and beach connoisseur who likes to "think deeply" from time to time.

  1. Lacy, as an Eleutheran living in Georgia I was excited to read your article and how you highlighted the local businesses. It popped up on my feed. Well documented. Sue is also a good friend. Happy travels. 😀

    1. Thank you, Diana! I’m glad you liked my post about your home island. It’s a beautiful and charming place! Also funny that you know Sue! Eleuthera is certainly a “small world.” Everybody knows everybody!

  2. I lived on Eleuthera in 1956 when my husband was in the navy and stationed there,I would love to see the island again,I can tell by the pictures I wouldn’t recognize any thing,we lived in Governous Harbor right by the bar. Is the pineapple plantation still done at the end of the island,owned by the Thompson brothers. I am 85 yrs old and would love to see the island. Thanks for the memory,Gloria love Toledo,Ohioi still love to travel.

    1. Gloria, I received your comment while I was in Governor’s Harbour. 🙂 I’m sure a lot has changed since 1956! There is still a pineapple farm in the North, but it’s called Lady Di’s Pineapple Farm. Not sure if that’s the same one, but it’s the most famous one these days. Hope you get to come back and visit one day soon!

  3. Lacey,
    We can’t forget the best airline to fly to Eleuthera, Delta, Flys direct from ATL to ELH. Also, Rock Sound is RSD. Great article, very informative for people that have never been!

    1. Thanks, Jeremy! I’m so glad Delta re-instated their flights from ATL to ELH. When I originally wrote this post, they had canceled the route due to COVID and I was so bummed.

  4. Hi lacy. Can you tell me if times of year matter for shelling? Is summer better than winter. Fall better than summer? We are planing a trip to Eleuthera soon, just not sure when to pick. I love when you have written, I will continue to read more. Sounds like you frequent the island. We have never been to this island. Please feel free to feed me and info that could help our planning and shelling!

    1. Hi Denee, thanks for your question! Someone just asked something very similar, so I’m repeating a bit of my answer here… Cocodimama beach and the beaches on the Caribbean (west) side near the airport have tons of little treasures. I read on another blog that the west side beaches tend to be best for shelling, in general. Others have had luck a bit further south near Tarpum Bay. I’m really not sure what season is best for shelling, but I’d guess anytime outside of hurricane season is great.

  5. Hi Lacey- I am so glad one of my friends found your guide and sent it to me. She knows that Eleuthera has been on my radar for the past 3 years. I had intended to go last year but Covid- enough said! I am happy to report my flight is booked and I am so excited to make “E” my last stop before returning to work after a well deserved sabbatical. The information you provided was on point and provided me such much needed insight. I am still currently deciding on accommodations and will be working to secure those soon. I will continue to tune in for your insight. I too reside in the metroplex but looking forward to some R&R and the slower pace of the island life.

    1. Hi Tammie! Thanks for reaching out. I’m truly don’t know much about shelling, but I will tell you that the Cocodimama beach and the beaches on the Caribbean (west) side near the airport have tons of little treasures. I read on another blog that the west side beaches tend to be best for shelling, in general. Others have had luck a bit further south near Tarpum Bay. Hope you enjoy the final days of your sabbatical and find some amazing shells!

  6. Lacey. I’m trying to plan a trip on Eleuthera. Do you know a local travel agent, concierge or someone in the know that can help me find the right fit for me.
    Thank you for your informative blog.

    1. Hi Bobbi, thanks for your question. I recommend reaching out to Tatjana at She does trip planning, concierge services and coordinates boat tours/fishing trips. Her fiance is also an Eleuthera native, so they know a ton about the best places to eat, stay, and explore on the island. You can reach her by email at and by phone at 310.251.7596. Good luck with your planning!

  7. Great article thanks , I’m looking to move to eleuthera permanently for a more peaceful life, keep up the good work 😎👍

  8. I went to Eleuthera in 2006 and went back again in 2009 with my husband and we loved it! Both trips I rented a house on Double Bay Beach.

    1. Thanks for your comment, Jean. I love Double Bay Beach! Such a nice place to stay on the island. I hope you go again soon!

  9. I lived on Eleuthera from 1978 to 1980 what a wonderful place it was haven’t been back since I’d love to go back to see the difference

  10. Hi Lacey-

    My husband and I are active 60 year olds and Eleuthera is on the list of trips! Thanks for the great tips. We typical do not stay at resorts but are more AirBnB people. Any suggestions on the best location to look for an AirBNB stay in your opinion. Also would love to hear what your 3 favorite beaches are.

    Many thanks-

    1. Hi Gail, thanks for your comment. I really love Squire’s Estates and Birds of Paradise cottages, which are both located in/near Governor’s Harbour. For beaches, be sure to check out Poponi Beach at La Bougainvillea Resort, Twin Coves, and Lighthouse Beach (if it’s still accessible when you go). I favor the Atlantic side beaches because they’re bright turquoise and have pink sand, but the Western beaches are nice too. I like Cocodimama for something different because it’s warm, calm, and shallow for what feels like a mile out.

  11. We’re planning our first trip to Eleuthera next May, and I’m cramming for the trip like first-year algebra. Thanks for this very helpful article!


  12. I am inquiring about the person you rent vehicles through! I am headed to Eleuthera in December (next month) and our travel agent has not done this yet, so I have been using your guide to find one (along with a few other things).
    Also, I absolutely LOVE this guide and this honestly finalized our decision on what Island to choose! So thank you!

    1. Hi Keely, so glad to hear that my guide has been helpful to you! You’re going to love Eleuthera. I’ll send you an email with Suzanne’s email address so you can book your rental car. Have a fabulous trip!

  13. Hi Lacey
    Heading back to Eleuthera in April ‘22 to introduce our grandchildren to the best place on earth. Would love Sue’s contact info for car rentals.


  14. Hey! Loved the article! My wife and I are going for the first time this June for our 15 year anniversary. We are excited and your excellent explanation has been helpful in preparing. Could you please send me Sue’s contact info? Thanks!

    1. Happy anniversary a few months early! I’m so happy to hear my guide was useful to you. I’ll send you an email with Sue’s contact information. Happy travels!

  15. Lacey, you are the best! This Dallasite is taking our nieces and nephews (30) to Eleuthera in July!!!! We will be sharing your travelogue and encouraging them to get ready for an amazing adventure!

  16. Love love love your blog!!! thank you! We are traveling to Eleuthera in July 2022. Taking our nieces and nephews (30). . . suggestions on flights to the island? can you send us Sue’s contact information???

  17. My big questions… wanting so badly to see Eleuthera before next pandemic or the end! What’s the weather like in October? Really? Beach weather? Is it really calmer seas on the Caribbean side? Should I spend at least one night at the Cove or French leave resort? Or basically same experience at a very nice beach hotel and a lot less expensive? Thanks for any tips!

    1. Hi Deb, October can be a sketchy month because it’s right in the middle of hurricane season. I would recommend traveling by early August or waiting til very late November. The fall can be nice, but the odds aren’t really in your favor at that time of the year. The Caribbean side of the island is generally calmer, but unless there’s bad weather, all of the beaches in Eleuthera are pretty calm. I personally prefer the Atlantic side beaches because of their iconic bright-blue waters and white sand. It’s certainly not necessary to stay at one of the resorts, but they are beautiful if that’s your thing! I might recommend going to La Bougainvillea if you want to go the resort route. It’s gorgeous and the service is great! Plus, it has the best beach of the three.

  18. Hi Lacy,
    I love your blog. I have been to many of the Caribbean Islands but not Eleuthera so I was wondering what side of the Island is the calmest and have the best beaches? On the other Islands I have visited staying on the Atlantic side was usually windy, rough. The Caribbean side is usually prettier. Is this the same in Eleuthera?


    1. Hi Maria, thanks for your question! I actually prefer the Atlantic side beaches in Eleuthera thanks to their bright water and pink sand. They are a little wavier/windier than the Caribbean side, but still fantastic! It’s very rarely too windy to enjoy the Atlantic side, in my experience.

  19. Hi Lacey. Thank you for this informative post! I was wondering if you have any advice about the internet in Eleuthera? My partner is wondering about working remotely there, and we don’t know if the internet is reliable for video calls

    1. Hi Jessica! I would recommend getting a device from MyIslandWifi or a phone with a prepaid data card from Aliv and tethering/hotspot functionality. Usually, the WiFi at rentals is solid (as long as the power doesn’t go out, which happens occassionally) but I definitely recommend bringing a back-up connection for work and to carry with you when visiting remote beaches, just in case you need to access Google maps or reach out to someone in case of emergency.

  20. Hello Lacey,

    What an informative article on this mazing island! It’s been on my bucket list to go there for a while now:) Can you please give me Sue’s info for the car rentals? Also can you recommend some reasonably priced accommodations close to Twin Coves?

    1. Hi Rehana, thanks for the kind words! I will send you Sue’s email in a separate email. For accommodations, anything in the Governor’s Harbour area would be reasonably close. There are some great AirBNBs in that area, including Squire’s Estate and this beautiful home owned by a friend of mine (

  21. Hi Lacey! I am coming with my family: me, my husband and kids 15, 13, and 10, for my birthday, November 3 to 7. I sailing in the Exumas about 30 years ago and loved it, and I want to come back to the pink sand beaches! It was almost deserted back then. Where should we stay? since it is only 4 nights, not sure an airbnb or hotel is best. We usually share a room all 5 of us. I wanted to stay right on the pink sand beaches… is that possible? Please let me know where you would suggest I book. Do we need a car? I love sailing, but I would rent a motor boat with captain for a copule of days to go to all the interesting spots.

    1. Hi Marina, I think we talked on Instagram some, but replying here just in case. I think an AirBnB would be great for your family. There are plenty of pink sand beaches like French Leave, Double Bay and Poponi with rentals nearby. Otherwise, check into La Bougainvillea – It’s amazing! You will definitely need a car to get around. If you stay in central Eleuthera (where the beaches I mentioned are) I recommend going doing a boat charter with Fishbone Tours (linked above in my blog post). Have a great trip!!

  22. Hi Lacey. We are going to Eleuthera in a few weeks and just trying to get a feel for the cost this year if fresh lobster and fish from the local fisherman. I believe we paid $20 per lb last August. Any idea of what the rate will be a few weeks? Price of gas per gallon?

    1. Hi Denise! Excited for you and your upcoming trip. We paid about ~$8/gallon for gas in July, if I recall correctly. The main shell station in Governor’s Harbour was charging more for gas and food than other places, so I’d recommend avoiding them. Not sure about the lobster! I asked in a couple of places but haven’t heard back yet. I wouldn’t expect it to be much more expensive than last year, but 2022 is a wild one, so who knows! Enjoy your trip.

    1. Thank you, Mark! Thanks for stopping by my corner of the internet. Look forward to seeing you in the Bahamas sometime soon!

  23. Hi Lacey. Thanks for such an informative article about Eleuthera. I plan to visit as soon as possible to see and explore the island where many of my ancestors lived, specifically in Tarpum Bay. Do you have recommendations for exploring (and staying on) the southern part of the island. I do see that RSD may be the better airport for me. Thanks!

  24. I’m a minister out in Lone Oak Texas. I oversee a ministry called community seeds which helps with the needs of the poor in three counties. I’d like to go to Eleuthera primarily because my dad was born in Savannah sound, and I’ve never been to his home please. Do you have any advice for me in terms of where I should stay there? I also want to apply for land there which I’m told if I can prove my dad ancestry that descendants will get a small piece of land in Eleuthera. Do you know anything about that. Can you respond to me by email at Or feel free to call me on my cell at 903-217-8002. My wife and I would love to drive to Dallas and perhaps have lunch with you to talk about this further. Or, if you find yourself in the East Texas areas of Rockwall, Greenville or Royse city, please feel free to join us at our ministry coffee shop in lone Oak Texas which is called sacred grounds (101 Katy St). I truly welcome your response and hope we can visit more about Eleuthera. We are considering going either late this December or first thing in January or February. Your thoughts

  25. Thank you so much for these so useful information. We are leaving Nassau in a couple of hours and flying to Eleuthera for a couple of days. Your blog came at the right time !
    Question – where are the best sunrise & sunset places according to you ?
    Thanks !

    1. Hi Noemie! Glad you enjoyed my blog. Hopefully, I’m not too late getting back to you. My favorite places for sunsets are the 1648 restaurant at the French Leave and La Bougainvillea. La Bougainvillea doesn’t face the sunset, but you can’t beat the ambiance there. Enjoy!

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